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skin care NEWS & SPECIALS

A monthly e-zine from GreatSkin.com
November, 2001
Mark Van Wormer, MD, ABAAM - Publisher
IN THIS ISSUE:

The "Eyes" Have It

Conservative Skin Remodeling

November Specials – Save up to 10%!!


Note: When you click on product links, the results will show in a separate browser window. To return to this page, click on the browser icon on your task bar (Windows).

THE "EYES" HAVE IT
    By Lori Van Wormer, L.E.


Your eyes, the most expressive part of your face, are the first thing people see when they meet you. The skin around the eyes is thinner and contains fewer oils and sweat glands, which in turn causes a loss of moisture. The eye area can become dehydrated causing wrinkles to appear. This area also suffers from continued movements like blinking, squinting, and smiling, along with the ravage of daily UV damage all contributing to a loss of elasticity. In addition, laughing, crying and even having hands on your face moves the skin around your eyes. No wonder crow's feet and heavy under eye lines develop early, and are the very first area of the face to age.

To help combat wrinkles and sagginess in this delicate area, one should remove eye makeup carefully (no pulling, tugging, or rubbing) with a soothing makeup remover and soft cotton ball. Always move from outside of eye underneath toward your nose and make a complete circle. And never, ever leave your house without wearing an eye product that hydrates and protects the eye area from UV damage.

If you suffer from puffy eyes and cannot get any relief, here are a few suggestions that may alleviate the problem:

1. Check your mascara - it should be changed out every 12 weeks due to the possible growth of bacteria.

2. If you wake up with puffy eyes, you could be using too much eye cream. In this case, less is best.

3. Check your eye makeup removal routine - it could be too rigorous. If you are using tissue to remove eye makeup, the microscopic splintery fibers can be irritating the skin around the eye. Switch to a soft cotton ball instead.

4. Sleep with your head elevated and try not to drink too many fluids before bedtime. Reducing your salt intake can help eliminate puffiness as well.

As for dark circles under the eyes, this is due to blood passing through tiny capillaries close to the surface. As the skin under the eye thins, and becomes more translucent with age, the discoloration worsens. This condition is usually inherited. A dark circle concealer is recommended.

Fatigue, irritation and swelling all can make you look older than you really are. Here is how to refresh tired, sensitive, puffy eyes.

Place cotton pads soaked in eye soothing fluid in the refrigerator. On the morning you wake up with puffy eyes or in the evening when you must go out after a long hard day's work, but those dark circles are jumping out at you in the mirror:
• Start by removing all eye makeup
• Lie down with feet up
• Place the cool soaked pads over eyes
• Rest 10 minutes while listening to soft, soothing music
Ten minutes later, your puffiness will be gone and you will look rested.

Products for Puffiness:
Bioelements Oxygen Cocktail

Products for Lines and Wrinkles:
Rhonda Allison Eye Repair System Kit
M.D. Forte Rejuvenating Eye Cream with the Power of Retinol
Dermalogica MultiVitamin Power Firm
Dermalogica Intensive Eye Repair
GreatSkin C Serum
Bioelements Eye Area
Biomedic Conditioning Eye Cream
Skinceuticals Eye Cream
Skinceuticals Eye Gel
Skinceuticals Eye Renewal Gel
Zirh Restore
DCL AHA Revitalizing Eye Cream

Products for Dark Circles:
Dermalogica Total Eye Care
Bioelements Dark Circle Concealer
Hiruval 35
Dermal K
K Derm

Products for Eye Makeup Removal:
Bioelements Makeup Dissolver
Dermalogica Soothing Eye Makeup Remover


CONSERVATIVE SKIN REMODELING, PART I
    By Mark E Van Wormer, MD

       

Men and women of the baby-boom era are reaching their 40's and 50's. They are generally involved in hectic schedules, which do not allow much "down time." Thus they are searching for cosmetic modalities, which will beautify them and keep them younger without any loss of family or office time. This article will review the modalities available for "no down time" facial skin remodeling. Part I will detail the ingredients of a therapeutic pharmacologically active home skin care program.

There is no substitute for continuous use of skin care products that actually have some clinical action on the skin. The products required are: Glycolic Acid, Tretinoin (Retin-A®), Retinol (which is much weaker than Retina®), Hydroquinone or Kojic Acid, topical Vitamin C, and a broad spectrum UVA/UVB sunblock.

Glycolic acids come in many forms and are not always tolerated by all skin types. These are fruit fermentation products, which basically cause daily sloughing or exfoliation of dead skin cells.

Tretinoin (Retin A®) is a vitamin A acid, which comes in three strengths. In our clinics, we use 0.025%, 0.05% and 0.1%. We have this product custom compounded (mixed in a pharmacy) with either Hydroquinone 10% (for maximal skin lightening) or Hydrocortisone 1% cream (for treatment of skin redness, sometimes associated with Retina®). Tretinoin has been shown to slough dead epidermal cells, thicken the dermis, improve skin circulation and provide a wonderful healthful "glow" to the skin. Tretinoin is a prescription medication, which must be used under the guidance of a physician.

Retinol is a Vitamin A alcohol (as opposed to Tretinoin, which is a vitamin A acid). Retinol comes in three strengths as well. This product is generally much more tolerable than Tretinoin to patients with sensitive skin. It is marketed as Afirm® 2x or 3x.

Hydroquinone and Kojic Acid are compounds, which inhibit our cell's production of melanin. Deep in the basal cell layer of our skin are found the melanocytes, cells that produce pigment. They do so through a tyrosine dependant enzyme pathway. Thus, Hydroquinone and Kojic Acid are tyrosinase inhibitors and block the production of pigment at the cellular level. If you have problems with hyperpigmentation, you will need to use one of these products in concert with either glycolic, tretinoin or retinol. Why? The residual pigment that migrates to the surface through the skin from the basal cell layer must be sloughed by exfoliants for maximal skin lightening. Thus the combined use of Glycolics, Tretinoins, Hydroquinone and/or Kojic Acid results in the best effect when treating hyperpigmentation.

The most powerful pharmacologic topical anti-aging ingredient is Vitamin C. Topical Vitamin C comes in many forms, but the most pharmacologically active is L-Ascorbic Acid 15% at a pH of 2.1 delivered in ethylene glycol, in combination with Glycolic Acid (Alpha Hydroxy Acids). There is only one product that meets these criteria available, Primacy C+AHA. Unfortunately, not all patients can tolerate the low pH (stings on application and may cause skin irritation). Another setback is that not all L-Ascorbic Acid based C-Serums remain stable. Most Vitamin C used in topical products, is so unstable that 90% of its potency is gone after the first month (30 days). To overcome these shortfalls, GreatSkin® has developed the most powerful, non- irritating vitamin c based product in the world. GreatSkin®14.3% pure & stable C-Serum's main ingredient, Ester-C® Topical is a technological breakthrough because it retains 90% of its Vitamin C activity for 2 years (730 days). This translates to more potency in the bottle, so when you apply it, high concentrations of stable vitamin C go directly into the skin.

Other important ingredients in GreatSkin®'s C-Serum are:

A New and Unique All Natural Herbal Complex brought together from around the globe. From the United States desert southwest comes Jojoba, which provides a nutrient base rich in triglycerides and minerals, especially iodine. Yucca Root and Aloe for cleansing and moisturizing---also Arnica flowers and Juniper are sourced from the Northern U.S. South America provides Soapbark, known for its gentle cleansing qualities. Europe provides herbs from the Alps, the Mediterranean and the northern plains such as Horsetail, Rosemary, Kelp, and Chamomile. From the Orient comes Green Tea, Each herb is carefully selected for it's natural constituents and blended in specific proportions to maximize their effect.

Pycnogenol® - Maintains Skin Health:
A natural plant extract from the bark of the Maritime Pine growing along the coast of southwest France, in the Lands of Gascony. Pycnogenol® is a water-soluble flavonoid extract with highly bio available procyanidins, catechins, taxifolins and the typical spectrum of phenolic acids. Pycnogenol® has proof of its bioavailability in man. The antioxidant effects of GreatSkin® C Serum ingredients have been proven to neutralize free radical activity caused by exposure to the sun. Pycnogenol®, is a powerful blend of antioxidants and a natural anti-inflammatory agent, helps binds collagen fibers, realigning them in the process to more youthful, undamaged structures. Elasticity and flexible strength is restored to connective tissue. Current research has shown that Pycnogenol® maintains skin health and helps alleviate a variety of other conditions.

Co-Q10 - is a totally natural substance found in every cell of the human body, especially in the heart. Co-Q10 acts similar to extremely effective strong antioxidants. It prevents production of Oxygen free radicals initially, due to efficient controlled use of Oxygen and Hydrogen electrons, which then ensures that cellular antioxidants have less free radicals to negate.

Lastly, a powerful broad-spectrum sunblock, worn daily, is imperative, whether office or beach activities are planned. The slow loss of the Ozone layer in the outer stratosphere has resulted in a much more powerful sun than we once experienced. Sun is the number one cause of premature aging. Smoking is second. Genetics is third. If we can block the damage from solar exposure (and this includes tanning beds), we can then prolong wrinkle free skin.

Below are regimens that relate to the article above, and meet the criteria:
1. Obagi - Essential Starter Kit, Tretinoin and GreatSkin® C-Serum
2. Skinceuticals - Simply Clean, Equalizing Toner, Serum 15, Hydrating B5 Gel, Phyto Corrective Gel, Intensive Line Defense, Daily Moisture, Daily Sun Defense SPF30, Renew Overnight, Clarifying Clay Mask
3. Primacy - Simply Clean, Equalizing Toner, Primacy C+AHA, Hydrating B5 Gel, Phyto+, Intensive Line Defense, Primacy Face Cream, Daily Sun Defense SPF30
4. GreatSkin® - Pearlescent Cleanser, Seaweed Extract, GreatSkin® C-Serum, Quick as Lightening Gel, Hyaluronic Cream and 100% Pure Titanium Dioxide
5. BioMedic - Environmentally Damaged/Hyperpigmented Kit, Microencapsulated Retinol Cream and Maximum C


November Specials

SAVE UP TO 10%
On some of our most popular products!

Save 10% on any of the following:

• GreatSkin® 100% Pure Oxygen Plasma, 1/2 oz. Size
• Bioelements Dark Circle Concealer
• Rhonda Allison Eye Repair System Kit
Get ready for winter with our November Specials.

To Order the November Specials, click here


Are you planning on having facial surgery?

We have put together two excellent kits for our Pre and Postop clients. Read about both of these programs -- plus the protocols that Dr. Van Wormer uses to prevent scarring, bleeding and swelling when he does laser resurfacing.


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