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Skin Care News & Specials

A monthly e-zine from GreatSkin®.com
June, 2003
Mark Van Wormer, MD, ABAAM - Publisher

 

In This Issue:

» Self Tanners

» Join the GreatSkin®.com Affiliate Program

» Sunblock Essentials: Chemical vs. Mechanical and SPF

 

Self Tanners

By Lori Van Wormer, L.E.

Lori’s Beauty Tip of the Month

“After many years of searching for a self tanner that doesn’t have an offensive odor, I have finally found these three. I alternate between St Tropez and Flawless using the light for a perfect application. When I travel, I love to use the Tan Towels because they are so easy and disposable!”

It’s that time of year again—time to start wearing our bathing suits, sundresses, and shorts. Have you ever noticed what a difference a tan can make in wearing those clothes?

A tan can even make us look thinner and more vibrant. However, as we all know, tanning can lead to some serious side effects. Not only is UV radiation a leading factor in the formation of future skin cancer, it also plays an active role in causing our young dewy complexion to age with sagging, wrinkled spotted skin. That, alone, can make us re-think the tanning process. There are other options, however, and those options are called self tanners.

Years ago, self tanners were famous for being orange, streaky, and stinky. Believe me, they have come along way! When applied correctly, self tanner agents will decrease the penetration of UV radiation through the skin by over 50%. They no longer have strong odors and the tan that they afford is more natural and less reddish colored.

The trick to a good self tanning application is the proper preparation of the skin prior to application. We must first slough off the dead skin cells with a body exfoliant to create a smoother more refined skin texture. After the exfoliation process, apply a moisturizer to soften and smooth the skin. Then, apply your self tanner using long upward strokes for a flawless application, and …

Look wonderfully tanned with no damaging effects!

This month GreatSkin® is offering money saving packages to help you have safe, beautiful tans.

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Sunblock Essentials: Chemical vs. Mechanical and SPF

By Mark E Van Wormer, MD
Director, GreatSkin® Med-Surge Spas of the Southwest

Dr. Mark says:

“After spending entire days fishing on Conchas Lake in New Mexico in the Summer, and using all the sunblocks available, my favorite combination of sun protection is the GreatSkin® SPF 30 used over top of a generous layer of GreatSkin® C serum 25%. I frequently reapply the GreatSkin® Sun Protection Spray as needed, cover up my arms and wear the Obagi sun protection Hat. The combination prevents UVA and UVB absorption and scavenges the free radicals that actually penetrate.”

Our readers are often unsure which sunblock to select, so let’s review the pertinent information regarding sunblocks.

First, sunblocks can be chemical blocks which absorb either UVA or UVB solar irradiation. Which type of radiation is worst? Sunburn (manifest by red, painful, swollen skin) is primarily caused by UVB. The intensity of solar radiation (altitude), the frequency and duration of exposure determines the degree of photosensitivity. Skin cancer and photoaging are caused by frequent exposure to both UVA and UVB, thus so-called “broad spectrum protection” is needed.

One must choose a sunblock which has at least two chemical blocks, one for UVA and one for UVB, since both forms of radiation are ultimately harmful. Nothing less than SPF 30 is really photoprotective, even though lesser blocks are manufactured. Why? With lesser protection, greater damage to the melanocytic system results with induction of the pigment protection response in Fitzpatrick 3-6 individuals, and tanning occurs. Thus, lesser SPF sunblocks afford a tan to those who can tan.

In the fair Fitzpatrick 1 and 2, no tanning can occur and only damage and redness result. One false assumption is that frequent reapplication of any SPF sunblock will result in the ability to withstand longer time in the sun. Absolutely wrong. Reapplication will only result in sun protection as good as that particular SPF degree one is using. SPF’s beyond 30 produce no better results in sun protection, so buying an SPF or 45 or 60 is not really any better than that of 30.

When looking at chemical ingredients one should look for a benzophenone derivative or debenzoyl methane (Parsol 1789). This combination will absorb both UVA and UVB in sufficient amounts to prevent solar damage, if it’ s SPF 30 or greater. Some patients are sensitive to PABA from a chemical irritation standpoint, so this ingredient may be obviously omitted.

Mechanical blocks are compounds which reflect, absorb and scatter UV radiation. They are sometimes called physical blockers. Generally Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide are the compounds used, but iron oxide, talc, kaolin, silica, mica and bentonite have been used as well.

In the past, for these compounds to be effective blockers, the concentration had to be 10% or greater, resulting in thick, pasty, occlusive and comedogenic creams. Now with micronization processes the particles can be ground to 40 to 100 nm in size providing translucent suspensions that are not pasty and white. Titanium Dioxide is the best UVB scattering agent while Zinc Oxide is best at scattering UVA. Thus, the “natural” or “non-chemical” blocks are generally comprised of zinc and titanium in various bases usually containing aloe or other soothing ingredients.

The ideal sunblock would have the following characteristics:

  1. It would be odorless, and non-comedogenic and non chemically irritating
  2. It would be easy to apply and be waterproof and not wipe off easily
  3. It would have both chemical and physical blockers for the entire spectrum of UVA and UVB radiation
  4. It would have an SPF value of at least 30

One interesting side note about self-tanners. When applied correctly, self-tanning agents will decrease the penetration of UV radiation through the skin by over 50%. Self-tanners have come along way as well. They no longer have strong odors when applied and the tan they afford is more natural and less reddish-colored. Therefore, perhaps we could add that an ideal block would also provide a nice tan without exposure to the sun! Patients with vitiligo can also use self-tanners to even their skin coloration and prevent sunburn in these sensitive areas.

The final area of interest in substances applied for photoprotection includes the topical antioxidants such as Vitamin C and Vitamin E. It appears that these agents act as free radical scavengers after the UVA and UVB has penetrated the skin and interacted with cells in the dermis. The reactive oxygen species (free radicals) which actually cause the sunburn are immobilized after the fact and before they can cause damage to cellular mechanisms. Vitamin C has been shown to be the best UVA free radical absorber and Vitamin E was best at UVB free radical scavenging. The antioxidants themselves do not absorb the rays prior to radiation damage; they simply clean up the area. One may also utilize oral free radical scavengers like green tea, read tea, pycnogenol, grape seed extact, Vitamin C, CO Q-10, and Idebenone to harvest the free radicals created in solar exposure.

And last, and probably most important. Simple abstinence from sun bathing, sun exposure and use of cover up sun blocking clothing is warranted since the solar rays of today are much higher in energy than the past and all sun induced malignancies are on the rapid rise!

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